Installing
Ceramic Tile
by
Mark Donovan
Ceramic Tile brings
a texture, richness and color to a room that Linoleum has yet
to truly mimic. Tile floors can be installed in any room, however
they are most frequently seen in Bathrooms and Kitchens. I particularly
like them in entryways, where they serve as a transition point
from the outside to large carpeted or hardwood floored rooms.
They make for easy clean up and are impervious to water damage.
Tile Types
Ceramic tiles come
in two basic types. Glazed and Porcelain. Glazed holds up the
best for heavy traffic areas and porcelain works well in bathrooms.
Porcelain is typically more expensive, so consider your budget
and the size of the area you want to tile. Tiles also come in
many shapes and sizes. For flooring, however, I would suggest
using larger tiles up to 12" x 12".
Underlayment
For proper installation
the base foundation or the underlayment is critical. Typically
it consists of ¾" to 1 ¼" of plywood.
Tiling over Linoleum or existing tile is also feasible, as long
as it is solid. I also recommend when Tiling over Linoleum that
you first apply ring nails or screws 6" on center over the
entire area. Tiles can also be installed directly over Concrete.
Make sure in all cases that the floor is level and free of dust
and debris prior to installation. There are leveling compounds
that you can apply before applying tile if necessary.
Preparing
the Site
Before actually
installing the tile, it is best to lay it out in the room to see
how it will look. Pay close attention to how it runs out toward
the walls, in the corners and next to cabinets, tubs and toilets.
The trick is to lay the tile out such that stubby tiles do not
show up in highly visible spots. Once you have completed this,
make two marks with a pencil outlining the most centered tile.
These lines should be perpendicular to each other. Also take note
of the wall that is most visible from all the others. Now remove
the tiles. Next draw or snap a line perpendicular to this wall
that is in line with one of the marks you made on the floor. Then,
draw a perpendicular line to this first line. This second line
should be centered with the first line and fairly in line with
the second mark you made on the floor. Once you have completed
this task, re-layout some of the tiles along the perpendicular
lines
and observe if they run out in a way that will limit cutting and
stubbed tiles. Once this is completed, remove the tiles and prepare
for the actual installation.
Installing
the Tile
Again, make sure
the area is free of dirt and dust. Next apply the ceramic adhesive
or mastic to the flooring, starting in the center, where the two
perpendicular reference lines intersect. Apply enough material
to cover 6-10 square feet, if no cuts are required. If cuts are
required limit the amount of mastic application to about 2-4 square
feet. When applying the mastic, first spread it
with the flat end of the trowel. Lay it on relatively thick, approximately
1/8" to 3/16"thick. Then turn the trowel around and
run the notched edge over it. This creates ridges in the mastic
that helps to hold the tile down more securely. The larger the
tile, the larger the notches should be. For example, I use a ¼"
notched trowel for 12" x 12" tiles.
Note: Only make
up enough ceramic adhesive for 30 minutes, as this material has
the tendency to harden up rather quickly.
Once the adhesive
has been applied, begin installing the tiles working from the
center outward. On larger tiles you should back butter them. Basically,
apply a thin coating of mastic to the back of the tile prior to
laying it on the floor. This will help ensure a good bond.
As you near the
walls or edges of cabinets, tubs and toilets, you will need to
cut some of the tiles. I highly recommend the use of a Wet-Saw.
A Wet-Saw will allow you to make very accurate cuts, both large
and small. You will also save money, as you will waste many fewer
tiles with bad cuts or broken tiles. Wet-Saws are not that expensive
and once you see your finished product you will certainly be
installing more tile. Wet-Saws can also be rented as a cheaper
alternative.
When applying Tiles,
you may want to use Lugs. Lugs are effectively spacers that come
in various thicknesses. I typically like to have no more than
a ¼" space between the tiles. Employing Spacers will
ensure uniformity with your tile spacing.
Grouting
After the Tile has
been completely installed, allow it to sit for 24-48 hours before
applying grout and walking on it. Grout comes in many different
colors and is very easy to install. Simply mix the grout with
water or a special bonding agent and apply with a rubber trowel.
Run the trowel on a bias when going over tile corners.
Once the grout has
been applied, immediately wipe the tile of excess grout, using
a wet sponge and a bucket of water. Wait 30 minutes and again
wipe the tiles down of any residual grout. Wait another 60 minutes
and repeat. If grout is left on the tiles to dry, you will have
a great deal of elbow work scraping it off.
Let the grout sit
up for 24 hours and it is ready for use and admiration.
© Mark Donovan
Over the past 20+
years Mr. Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions
to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home,
building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing
unfinished homes. Mr. Donovan's formal education and profession
have been as an Electrical Engineer and Marketing Manager. Email
Mr. Donovan at me_donovan@c... or visit either his
website www.homeadditionplus.com
or blog site www.homeaddition.blogspot.com.